Why the Use of Exosomes in Medical Aesthetics Is Controversial

In the world of advanced skincare and aesthetic medicine, the term “exosomes” has gained considerable traction. At Haus of Ästhetik we are committed to staying at the forefront of innovation, but it is important to separate sound science from marketing hype. While exosome-technologies may hold real promise for skin rejuvenation, the current evidence, regulatory environment and product legitimacy demand a cautious and educated approach.

What Are Exosomes and Why Are They in Skincare?

Exosomes are extracellular vesicles measuring roughly 30-150 nm in diameter that are naturally secreted by cells into the surrounding environment.   Their role is essentially as messengers or couriers: they transport proteins, lipids, nucleic acids and growth-factors between cells, modulating intercellular communication and tissue responses. 

In aesthetic dermatology the appeal is clear: by delivering these signalling vesicles, the hypothesis is that one can enhance regeneration of skin, stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation, and support restoration of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in ageing or treated skin. 

The Promise: What Early Evidence Suggests

Some studies have documented potential benefits. For example:

• A review observed that exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells (MSC) or adipose-derived stem cells (ADSC) reduced markers of photo-damage (reactive oxygen species), reduced matrix-metalloproteinases (MMPs) and increased pro-collagen production via the TGF-β/Smad pathway. 

• A systematic review of topical exosome (and peptide) products found signals of increased collagen deposition, accelerated wound healing, improved skin texture in human/animal models. 

• More broadly, independent reviews caution that exosome-based therapies may offer a “cell-free” alternative to stem-cell therapies, with lower risk of immune rejection or tumour formation, but stress that the field is still nascent. 

From a clinic perspective, this means that exosome-infused serums or post‐treatment boosters may play a role in skin rejuvenation, especially when combined with treatments such as microneedling or radiofrequency.

The Reality: Why It’s Controversial

Despite the promise, there are significant limitations, unanswered questions and regulatory issues.

1. Lack of standardisation & quality control.

Methods of producing, isolating and characterising exosomes vary widely. Purity, concentration, membrane integrity and bio-activity differ across manufacturers. Without standardisation, product claims are difficult to verify. 

2. Regulatory ambiguity & legal issues.

In the UK and EU, cosmetics regulation places strict limits on use of human-derived biological material in topical products. For example, products derived from human cells (umbilical cord, placenta, etc) may fall outside cosmetic status and into medicinal/biological regulation.   Reports have surfaced of UK clinics inadvertently offering human-cell derived exosome treatments which breach regulation, raising safety concerns. 

3. Delivery & mechanism of action uncertainties.

To have an effect, topical or treatment-delivered exosomes must penetrate the skin barrier (or be delivered via channels such as microneedling). There remains debate over whether exosomes in topical serums actually deliver functional payloads in sufficient quantity. One review states the clinical application is “still regarded as being in its infancy”. 

4. Marketing vs evidence.

Because the field is novel, many marketers lean heavily on the “regenerative” language of exosomes without providing robust human-clinical trial data or long-term safety outcomes. As one expert puts it, “I want to see the science get a little further before I’m willing to pay for it.” 

How We Incorporate (and Cautiously Use) Exosome-Based Products at Haus of Ästhetik

At Haus of Ästhetik we adopt a discerning strategy when integrating exosome-based skincare or treatment adjuncts. Here’s how we approach it:

• We ensure any product we use: (a) complies with UK and EU regulations (source, traceability, purity) (b) has evidence to support its use or is part of a treatment protocol with demonstrated outcomes.

• We use exosome-based products as part of a broader protocol, e.g. post-microneedling serums to support healing, or as a booster in our skin-rejuvenation packages, rather than presenting them as a miracle standalone solution.

• We discuss openly with clients the current state of evidence, the limitations, and set realistic expectations. Regenerative potential is promising, but not guaranteed.

• We select trusted products with formulation profiles that complement our clinical protocols. For example:

  
  

  • Medicube One Day Exosome Shot 7500 – used in a controlled setting for clients seeking advanced regeneration post-treatment.

  • The INKEY List Exosome Hydro‑Glow Complex – offered for home-care between treatments to support skin barrier health and radiance.

  • APIS Exosomes PRO Biostimulating Ampoules – an ampoule-based regime selected for clients undergoing multiple skin-renewal sessions.

  Each of these products is employed in the context of a wider treatment plan (e.g. LED therapy, chemical peels, injectables where appropriate) rather than in isolation.

Key Considerations for Clinicians and Clients

When considering exosome-based treatments or home-care, keep the following in mind:

• Check the source of the exosome: human, animal or plant? Note the regulatory implications (e.g. human-derived may not be permitted for cosmetic use in UK).

• Ask for evidence: Has the manufacturer published peer-reviewed data? Has the product undergone independent bio-activity testing?

• Consider delivery method: Topical vs needled vs injected. How is penetration achieved? Is the protocol aligned with the product’s design?

• Manage expectations: Explain that while early data is encouraging, results vary, and long-term outcomes are not yet fully mapped.

• Treat as part of a plan: Exosome serums or ampoules are adjuncts, they don’t replace foundational skincare (cleansing, sun-protection, healthy lifestyle) nor core aesthetic treatments when indicated.

• Regulation and safety: Ensure the treatment pathway is aligned with accordance to UK regulations (e.g., human-derived biologics in cosmetics are highly restricted). 

Final Thought

Exosomes bring a fresh dimension to aesthetic medicine: biologically inspired, technically advanced, and rich in possibility. Yet at the same time, the gap between high promise and high proof remains. At Haus of Ästhetik we invite our clients to step into that frontier, confidently, but with eyes open. Because innovation is best when paired with integrity.

If you’re interested in exploring whether an exosome-boosted pathway might suit your skin journey, whether as part of our Skin Rejuvenation Subscription or within a bespoke treatment plan, please let us guide you through what is evidence-based, what is emerging, and what is most appropriate for you.

References

1. Bai G, Wyles S, Garibyan L, Cartier H, Gold M. Clinical applications of exosomes in cosmetic dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;24(1):12-18. 

2. Dal’Forno-Dini T et al. Exploring the reality of exosomes in dermatology. PMC. 2024. 

3. Mahmoud RH et al. Exosomes for Aesthetic Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jan;24(1):e16766. 

4. Olumesi KR et al. A review of exosomes and their application in cutaneous. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023. 

5. Taub AF et al. Regenerative topical skincare: stem cells and exosomes. Front Med. 2024. 

6. Villarreal-Gómez LJ et al. Use of Exosomes for Cosmetics Applications. Cosmetics. 2025;12(1):9. 

7. “Exosomes are the latest ‘miracle’ skincare ingredient — but …” National Geographic. 2025.